Going Wild in Puerto Rico

This looked like some sort of fruit pod we noticed while we were taking a leisurely walk to the lighthouse on Culberita except it was moving. On close inspection, it turned out to be a hermit crab in a bright green shell. There were hermit crabs of all sizes around us. They actually made noise, rustling on the forest floor. Tim picked up a large one and let out quite a scream when it nipped him. I think that one was the size of a lobster.

Crazy cacti

A side trip on our way back from the lighthouse revealed these cacti. They were big, beautiful and dangerous.

From our room in the rainforest, we saw this bird and a few friends cavorting outside our window. There was a lot of hubbub and one bird was stripping the strands of palm leaves for building material. Amazingly there were very few insects and we were able to sleep with the door open.

Tree lizard

Slow progress

In the El Yunque rain forest, everywhere I looked I saw snails. They reminded me of tree leeches in Tasmania but at least they didn’t drop off trees and land on people. They were large snails in flat shells and were on the trees, buildings and in the flowers.

I was lucky enough to catch a hummingbird while I was following the slow progress of a snail in a flower.

Ignore all signs

At least three times during our trip to Puerto Rico we were told, you will see a sign that says, “Don’t Enter”. Just ignore it. So we did. Very unlike me, because I usually obey all the rules. The first was for Flamenco Beach on Culebra. We were advised not to pick anything up while snorkeling because it could be an unexploded device. No problem. So while I ignored the do not enter sign, I didn’t touch anything.

We wanted to tour the derelict lighthouse on Culebrita. Who knows, we could end up as caretakers. We met a Belgium couple whose paths we crossed a couple of times and one of them explained the lighthouse was well worth seeing. It’s surrounded by barbed wire and a fence that says, “No trespassing” but just ignore it. So we did. I can see why the sign was there. The buildings were in quite a state of disrepair. There were a lot of similarities to American and Australian lighthouses but the outbuildings definitely had a Spanish flair. There were open courtyards with tiled floors, and ornate stonework, which was really quite magnificent. The stairs were missing quite a few pieces and the tower’s cupola had blown off and was lying outside the barbed wire fence. But the light still worked and we could observe it from our anchorage.

I see no evil

These three guys looked over us at a beautiful anchorage on the island of Culebrita. Notice the one on the right holding his head. We coined them see no evil, hear no evil and speak no evil. There couldn’t be anything evil on that beautiful island, which even has a working lighthouse. Could be our next gig! The light works, even though it’s toppled over and the buildings are in ruins. Photos to follow.

There were heart rocks afoot.

Then in the rain forest, El Yunque National Park, in southeastern Puerto Rico, we found man eating ferns! It was strange to be in a rain forest and find typical USDA park signs. We felt like we were a world away from the United States. Our road back to the airport however passed the worst of the worst in architecture. Strip mall after strip mall. Walmarts, McDonalds and traffic!

Time to get the island back into this blog

We traveled south where the skies are blue and the water is warm. We chartered a sailboat, with friends, from the eastern part of Puerto Rico and sailed from there to and around the island of Culebra. A good time was had by all. We had all sorts of weather except snow. We relied on the kindness of strangers on more than one occasion and the universe delivered. I think I saw three rainbows in all.

What you won’t see are the torrential rains that doused us, because I wanted to protect my camera. Since I have no digital images of the storms, I may simply forget all about them. I may also forget the fact that our berth’s porthole leaked and we began the trip with damp sheets and mattresses.

There were some beautiful moments every day. We swam off the boat and I was reminded of how much I enjoy sailing or camping because I am outside from the moment I wake up until I go to sleep.

These colors work in the Caribbean but they would be too bold for home; they don’t meet the Adirondack Park Agency guidelines.

Fat cats

We left Launceston today and finally flew to Flinders Island, our interim island. It’s beautiful. Large mountains on the southern end, nice beaches and a steady breeze. I think we’ll get used to the sound of wind blowing. We’re staying in a cabin with all the comforts, which is a nice change after three weeks of hotels and hostels. Yesterday I had a chance to photograph two of the fat cats we’ve met as well as some of the cars we have seen.

Cars don’t die here. There are Australian models of all the classics – except the AMC Pacers.

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Fuji from the Launceston Backpackers, weighing in at about 20 pounds and doing his favorite activity. The locations change, sun when it’s cool and shade when it’s hot.

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Fat Charlie, very talkative, also weighing in above 20 pounds.

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Sweet Chevy like car.

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This truck has a snorkel and some heavy duty communication gear for offroad, underwater travel.

We flew on a small plane but the flight was only 30 minutes. Before the flight, the pilots were doing practice runs on the runway??!!! I guess you have to learn sometime.

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It was a beautiful day for flying. I saw the Bass Strait, where we will be located, for the first time from the air.

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Parting shots of Launceston. We had to go the police station because Tim’s kindle was lost and stolen. It seems like it will be easy to find. Whoever tries to register it with Amazon will have to provide contact information and voila? right? Well even if it’s recovered, we won’t get it back until March. In the meantime, I’m guarding mine with my life.

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Oh yes, and a sock knit on the Overland Track, waiting to be finished when I am reunited with my sewing needle.

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A slideshow of the Overland Track and some random thoughts

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We’re back in town and moving from the Launceston Backpackers to a hotel for the night before we fly to Flinders Island tomorrow to begin the real journey. We’re looking forward to settling in for a few months and to be done with all this packing and unpacking. The hostel experience has been great though. There’s a huge commercial kitchen here and we’ve made all of our breakfasts and brought in and assembled dinners. There’s a fat cat named Fuji, who is spoken to in many languages and it’s interesting how many people reach out to him. That’s probably one of the reasons he weighs about 20 pounds.

I love checking out supermarkets in different countries and last night’s find was a special refrigerator section devoted to pet food. I couldn’t understand why there was a chicken and beef blend in a sausage but the picture of the cat on the package should have been a giveaway.

DSCN0450.JPG We avoided buying any. But right next door was game meat. Remember that cute wallaby in yesterday’s post. Well I found it in the supermarket.

DSCN0453.JPGWe had chicken.

I also puzzle over the language.

DSCN0319.JPG Car rental rates increase, the older the car? I guess it costs more to maintain an older car.

Some sky scenes from Overland Track.

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Highlights of the Overland Track

We spent the last 5 days walking 62 kms of the Overland Track, which travels south from Cradle Mountain to Lake St. Clair. It went by in a flash and now some of the days are jumbled together. We had beautiful weather (fine) for many days and constant rain for one of the days, which then led to a wet and muddy walk for the rest of the trip.

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The good outweighed the bad by far, which says a lot because the bad was B A D. We met wonderful people along the way. We camped when the weather was nice but usually prepared our food in the huts stationed along the way. We walked the same pace as several other groups so would meet and recap at night. The views were awesome but unfortunately my camera (or I) didn’t save the photo of the Lord of the Rings valley we came upon on our first day. That was before we walked along a plateau where the wind was so strong, if I didn’t have my ?15 kilo pack, I would have blown away. The first day included a fairly steep climb with rocks and a chain for a handhold but the view at Marion’s lookout was beautiful.

DSCN0339.JPG I stumbled into camp the first night and then we discovered a problem with our tent. We had used it extensively a few years ago and were very happy with it. it kept us dry and looked very cool. This time there was a problem. it never looked cool nor would it keep us dry in a down pour. The fly was flapping in the breeze. First we thought it was because we weren’t used to setting up on tent platforms. One guy told us he thought we just weren’t finished pitching the tent. By about the third night, we recalled this fly was a replacement for one with a faulty zipper. When we received it, all we did was check the zippers. Not whether it actually fit on the tent. We’ll have some correspondence with Black Diamond when we return home.

DSCN0392.JPG We saw wallabies, pademelons (which look like wallabies with fat faces), a wombat, possum, white lipped snakes, skinks and a platypus. We heard beautiful birdsong but couldn’t spot most of them. Somehow we missed the tiger and devil.

DSCN0358.JPG The little joeys stick their heads out of the pouch and munch on the grass with mom.DSCN0373.JPG There were boardwalks over sensitive areas. Some were made of straight boards but others were somehow milled and cut from wood onsite and was very creative.

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But oh the horrors!! Our second longest day, about 10 miles, was in constant rain after a night of torrential rain. This led to washouts on the trail. There was one waterfall we had to cross, about eight feet across, right at the dropoff, which almost brought tears to my eyes. Well we were too far along to go back, my lips and chin got to quivering but with Tim’s encouragement (and laughter afterwards) I made it across. Initially we tried to avoid deep puddles and mud, but after we had to slog through a foot deep river for about two hours, we didn’t care. The water sloshing around in my boots actually felt like a cushion. Some areas had boardwark a foot under the water with rushing currents. But that’s not the bad part.

All this water brought leeches!!! The idea skeeves me. At one point, five hours into the walk, heading uphill, Tim told me I was really slowing down. Well, duhh. But then I saw something, which looked like a black inchworm on my hand, when i tried to fling it off, it was stuck. Then I was able to run with my pack through the mud to Tim yelling, “Ahhhhh, get it off of me!” We had many on us when we got to the Pelion hut that night, but so did everyone else. Then today on the ferry I met a woman who had one in her eye!!!! She said it had been her worse fear to get a leach in her eye. i never even imagined such a thing. Her other fear was being stuck on a train. Now there’s something I can deal with.

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I think I shrunk in the rain.

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Taking Thanksgiving on the Road

An early wish to family and friends because we leave early tomorrow, or late Sunday in the states, for a six day backpacking trek. I have added a few treats to my pack which even Tim doesn’t know about. I got to join an excellent chef for a Thanksgiving celebration at Coles, the local supermarket; Curtis Stone. I emailed and invited him out to Deal Island but he hasn’t responded…yet.

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Today, I had an emergency visit with a local dentist because a tooth or crown cracked. Now, understand I am someone who has gone to the same dentist since childhood. I drive six hours to see my dentist. I never took my kids to the dentist because I thought they could pick up on my fears. Today I found one in a foreign country on the internet based upon the fact they can see me on a Sunday. Oh boy. They were very nice though and even offered to drive me home after my appointment because it’s about a 40 minute walk from here. I think I found a new dentist!

The walk was lovely with gardens along the way. I photographed a couple of examples of something that always puzzled me. Have you ever noticed two family houses where the owners couldn’t agree on the color or trim. It seems so odd to see two halves of a house, which do not match. This house had different roofs, railings and trim but the color matched.

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The one below couldn’t agree on the same color but matched the trim. Maybe the wires were a problem.

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Even the simplest houses had beautiful gardens. i think this may be a form of nasturtium.

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We’re upside down

Literally. We went for a hike yesterday in the Freycinet Park, with beautiful beaches, wallaby sitings, starfish, birdsong and trees.

DSCN0281.JPG We stopped to get our bearings with the compass I brought from home and found North is South in Tasmania. We need a southern hemisphere compass.

We rented a car and I got to drive on the left. All was fine until we began our trip home and found there were no petrel stations open. The one game in town only accepted its own brand of credit card after hours (6:15 pm!!!).

So we ate at a restaurant where the owner called everyone in town she knew to see if they had a card with the explanation,

” they are a lovely couple but they are from New York…”

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We could have used the remaining gas we had to pull into a drive through liquor store, which are present all over Tasmania. Drive through lanes are marked, Express or Browsing. After shopping, the drivers head off into traffic.

At the last moment, when we were almost prepared to find a room and spend the night, a knight in shining armor in a flatbed pick up truck stopped to buy gas and let us use his card. Then we drove home, 150 km or so, in the dark, dodging wallabies and wombats on the road. I saw more wallabies on my drive home than in the park. I should have expected it when my best wallaby photo was taken in the car park.

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Wineglass Bay was gorgeous. I think this is what Deal Island may look like and we are getting very excited. Our shopping is done and the boat is loaded because we leave for a six day back packing, bush walking trip on Monday. The boat will leave with everything except our hiking gear while we are away. We will celebrate Thanksgiving in a hut with dehydrated Turkey Tetrazzini; no football.

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We saw gianormous oyster shells and starfish along the beach. One area was called Oyster Bay, just like home.

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This tree man greeted us at the end of our walk before we almost ran out of gas.