Sunscreen vs. the sun

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A domestic aside.

The sun is amazingly strong here. My eyes take time to adjust every time I venture outside. Sunglasses have to be close at hand and are usually dangling around my neck. Skin cancer rates are almost epidemic in Australia. We are both fair, so we use sunscreen recommended by the Dermatologist, Neutrogena with Helioplex, and SPF shirts. The problem is the sunscreen leaves orange stains on clothing and pillowcases. At first I thought it was rust from the water but a little investigation on the internet revealed that yes indeed, sunscreen stains. One site even mentioned carotene as an ingredient. Carotene is the orange in carrots.

Twin tub washer

We use a cute little device called a twin tub washer here. You fill it with a hose, wash in one tub then move the clothes over to spin them. The downside is you see how dirty the water gets after the wash. Super duper cleaners

Most cleaning solvents here are “professional strength”, concentrated and 3X strength. But none could get out the stains. Tim had some really orange ones all over the collars and sleeves of his SPF shirts. One was white, so I scrubbed it, soaked it, bleached it, threw some vinegar in the water for good measure and used the 3X industrial strength cleaners. No luck. It remained orange and so did his tan one, which I was reluctant to bleach. The photo on the left is AFTER the wash.

After wash, before juice  After juice

So I thought about the sun. And I remembered my teens when lemon juice and sun were all the rage to lighten your hair and, in fact, my hair is getting bleached by the sun. I have good old lemon juice in the fridge so….I took some lemon juice and squirted it on the collars and turned the clothes line to face the sun. Within an hour the stains were gone. Why spend all this money on cleaning products when simple things like vinegar, baking soda, lemon juice and good old fashioned elbow grease do the trick?

Ironic that it took the sun to clean the sunscreen.

Lemon juice

Bush bashing

We went on an explore today and saw lots of new sites. What we didn’t see was the elusive pulpit rock.

This is not Pulpit Rock

But it is a beautiful outcropping of the island. We’ve been trying to find a rock off the tip of the island but can’t quite get to the right place. There’s a big hill in the way. We’ll get there yet. Today we walked a track and then made our way down a hill to get to Pegleg Beach, where we haven’t been before. I don’t think we found the best track but we got there. Pulpit rock will have to wait for another day.

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We saw Northeast Rock with one of the lights that replaced Deal Island’s light when they extinguished it in the 1990’s.

I found lots of animals and people in the rocks spilled along the coast. It helps pass the time while I slowly make my way across the rocks, any one of which could be an ankle or hip breaker or a widower maker.

Masked man Tim through the rock

Masked Man Tim through the rock

Old man in the sea

Old man in the sea

Daffy

Daffy Rock

Caught between

Caught between a rock and hard place

Oh noooooo!

This seaweed reminded me of Gumby and Mr. Bill

I spent the afternoon in the garden and then we walked up to the lighthouse to close it up for the day. We got there around sunset and there was a mist floating under us. Very cool. While there we found remnants of the old whim near the grave marker. Quite a day.

Above the mist Lighthouse and grave

My lettuce is listing to the left

We are having a run of windy weather for a change, right when my seedlings are beginning to raise their little heads above the dirt. I spent the afternoon putting protection around them because gale winds are expected until Friday. I had to prop up the corn once again because the plants were leaning to leeward. Somehow the peas’ tendrils held on. I encountered my first whip snake since we have been here in the garden. No lives were lost in videotaping it but it wasn’t as timid as I had expected. Nonetheless, it left and I escaped unharmed.

P1100122.JPG The lighthouse obscured by clouds.

Here are links to my latest film adventures:

The Garden Gale and white lipped snake encounter

The gurgle of beer brewing; and

Birds taking a bath

Ok, so perhaps I need a new hobby.

I’m still spinning and knitting. I’m almost done with my second sock and am spinning tasmanian mohair with organic merino wool. Very nice.

Above the lighthouse

The Deal island Lighthouse doesn’t actually sit on the highest point on the island but it’s close. The lighthouse is officially at 305 meters and is 12.5 meters high. We climbed to the peak just next to it, which is higher but wasn’t a good site for the lighthouse because it’s only dirt and rocks. There’s more granite at the lighthouse site and it’s not as close to the edge of the cliffs.

Looking down at the lighthouse Survey marker at the island's high point, Deal Island
Survey marker at the high point
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It was hot and calm and we enjoyed a picnic lunch at the lighthouse. The wind came back with a vengeance today but we still had visitors. A lovely family of four on a trimaran, Mustang Sally.

Tim keeps trying to lure me to the edge of very high cliffs. Should I worry?

Should I worry?

View from 1000 feet to the rocks and surf below. There’s not enough perspective to really see how high we were.Should I worry? copy
But the views of Barn Hill, Dover and Erith islands were spectacular.
Barn Hill, Dover and Erith Islands, Kent Group

Island and house guests

I only need to look around at the rocks to find all sorts of interesting things. I met a GP from Sydney the other day who was happy to learn she wasn’t the only one seeing things.

How did I miss this duck?
I am not the only one who sees a duck here, am I?

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I wish I was imagining things instead of seeing the spiders I have found around the house. Apparently they are relatively harmless but I wouldn’t do well if I found one on me when I was sleeping.
A visitor told me they would probably only bite if provoked. I asked, “what if I screamed loudly?” He said you could try that. Actually, there would be no thought behind screaming if I found this on me. Chelsea had one inside a bus. I bet there was some screaming there.
Oddly enough, Australians almost uniformly fear ticks. I can handle ticks. It must be something about the devil you know…
     

I run with kangaroos

But they are faster than me. It’s surreal. I take my iPod when I go for a run. The other day I was listening to a live concert in Central Park, while I ran halfway around the world from Central Park. Today I was listening to Elton John singing Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds and the magical nature in the song is much like here. We see wallabies all the time. When we walk by them, they are slow to do anything and usually cross the track in front of us and hop away into the tussock grass. Well when I run by, they fly. Their pace picks up considerably. It’s as if they are showing off. I’m not sure if it is because I am running or because I am singing out loud at full volume.

.Joey trying to go home

This kangaroo wouldn’t be a fast runner because it has the youngest joey I have seen.

While I was running downhill into a valley by a creek, I heard the whoosh of huge wings and the flock of Cape Barren Geese which has decamped to Garden Cove, soared by. All the while, I am surrounded by rocky hills and turquoise seas. I hope I never forget this experience.

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I’ve been knitting and spinning like a mad woman. I have designed a pair of socks I am knitting with wool I spun on the drop spindle. I have also been spinning mohair and merino together. I am going to try dyeing with onion skins and lichen. The benefit of lichen is you don’t need a mordant ( a chemical that causes the dye to stick to the fiber) to make a permanent dye. Just like my singing, this has effects on the wildlife. Today I saw a lizard wandering around in the sun room with some mohair fuzz stuck to its back leg, sort of like toilet paper on your shoe.

The ocean racers have arrived

There are several big races in this area right after Christmas. Our first visitors, who will go unnamed, stopped by after they dropped out of the Sydney Hobart race due to problems with their sails in the gale force winds. They walked up the hill to the compound, looked around a little, took a few pictures and walked back down to the boat. A quiet group.

The boat below was a winner.

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Yesterday, the winner (I think) of the Melbourne Hobart race and two other boats, who finished, arrived and the party began. There were 20 people ashore for the barbecue. Toasts were made, pictures were taken. It was a clubby group and everyone seemed to know one another. They had the air of people who had come through an ordeal together and survived and even won. Every one of them was in awe of Deal Island and were sorry they were in a rush to go home and couldn’t spend more time to explore the island. Most have been on the boats since Boxing Day and one boat’s head wasn’t working. They were especially eager to get back home and off the boat. When the boat left under the cover of night, a bugler played taps.

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The barbecue area is at the land end of the pier with a huge grill tables and benches.

Some things are universal though. At least two of the boats had female crew. I talked to several and they had withstood huge seas and knockdowns of their boats. Well a group of women were going out to one of the boats in a dinghy but they were having engine trouble. All the men stood at the beach and snickered. i know they were thinking, “female drivers” yet these women sailed the Southern Ocean in a gale!

Our grid

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We don’t have one. We depend on no utility companies, only the wind and rain. (Except for Telstra internet and phone and we haven’t had internet for two days). We are well stocked with power and water. We get our energy to run a freezer, refrigerator, lights and computers from a solar array which generates about 7.5 kwh daily, and the energy is stored in a bank of batteries. We seem to use about 3.5 kwh daily.

There’s a backup generator if the sun should stop shining. This replaced a diesel based generator system. Not much fun getting the diesel up the hill or paying for it.P1030114.JPG

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We get our water off the roofs of the houses. Our drinking water is collected in a new fiberglass tank and we filter it through a ceramic filter. The rest of the water comes from two concrete tanks, from which Tim occasionally scoops out dead bats. The next major project is to cover the tanks and keep out the bats and other wildlife.

We run a little honda engine, which pumps the water (but not the bats) up a hill to a tank about 1/4 mile from the house. It takes about 20 minutes to top it off. Then when we want water in the house, we just open the tap and it runs down the hill. Lots of engineering came before us. We just turn on the light switch and flush the toilet.

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Sweet.

We speak the same language, but just use different words

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We all speak English here. First of all I still can’t believe the US has not adopted the metric system when the whole world uses it. So I have to translate all measurements and weights, kms, grams and cms. But there are words here I haven’t heard before and we often have to ask what someone is talking about. Before we arrived, we were advised to bring a doona for the bed. When I was trying to figure out how to get internet service here and corresponded with Bigpond, the largest provider. They told me I couldn’t get a prepaid or month to month contract. Apparently they told me a porkey because I was able to get it through their parent company. I bought tomato paste squeeze and sachets. We eat sultana and bran cereal. Instant coffee is simply Nescafe. Milk is full cream or skinny. The other day someone asked us if we have chooks on the island because it would be hard for them to get used to the wind. We are greeted with, ” how are you going?” and aren’t sure how to respond. Yesterday we picked up some dunnage from one of the coves to build a bench.

There are also unlimited ways to convey a carefree life. “No worries, mate”, ” too easy” and “sweet”.

doona; light blanket or duvet

porkey: lie, not true

squeeze: packet or tube (i think)

sachets: packets

sultana; large like a raisin but not a raisin

chooks: chickens

dunnage: driftwood

Uh oh, I’m seeing things again

I spent a good part of the morning spinning yarn and looking out the windows. I think I was hiding from the flies for a while. Later in the day I walked to Garden Cove to look for a grave there and then to the Lighthouse with Tim to close it up for the day. On the lighthouse tower, I saw a monkey I haven’t seen before. Or it might be a mouse in a dress.

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Then I found a pac man rock.

Pac man rock

But I was really on a quest to find more about some of the history here on Deal Island. I was looking for a grave of a sailor near Garden Cove. He was on a ship sailing by in 1849 when he died. His shipmates came ashore and buried him near the beach. His marker was replaced in the 1930’s by a lighthouse keeper who used wood from a boat that sank in one of the coves. After a little hunt, I found it.

JS Sept 30 1849
I cleared some of the weeds around it. It was strange pulling weeds from over a grave. I thought twice when there was a little resistance. It’s in a beautiful location near Garden Cove. The marker says, “JS Sept 30 1849”.
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Garden Cove
There was a sealer’s settlement near Garden Cover around the same time. A cave has been found on Erith Island, just next door, which was inhabited about 7,000 years ago but nothing that old has been found here…yet.