After a 2 day delay, due to weather, the last of the work crew left today. Tim spent a good part of the past two days sending weather conditions to the pilot.
We were happy to receive a 45 gallon can of JET A fuel (diesel fuel with an additive to prevent freezing) for our heating system as a parting gift.
Then we were on our own to wrangle it off the dock and onto a trailer to bring it to the cabin. No can do. We were able to roll it off the dock but couldn’t lift or roll it onto the trailer.
So we had to collect a smaller barrel, to offload half the fuel into, and the somewhat finicky fuel pump, fondly referred to as “old red”, so we could get two “lighter” barrels onto the quad’s trailer.
In the end, we got it done. Pizza was a nice finish to the day.
It has taken me a week to absorb it all and be ready to write about it.
We are in a cabin in northern Manitoba on the southern shore of Egenolf Lake in a wilderness area that spans 6 million acres. Just like home in the Adirondacks. Except it’s not.
The nearest road is 250 miles away but travel is made easier, for some, in the winter, when the lakes freeze. We met one man who rode a snowmobile 6 hours to get here one winter.
We are in an off the grid cabin, designed to provide most of the comforts, in the harsh Manitoba winters. How harsh ?
There is a column in the cabin with the low temperatures marked for several years dating back to 2003, entitled, “The Bushmen Will Survive.”
And we are pretty sure they did.
Every system has at least one, sometimes two, back-up systems, and we have spent the week learning them all and thinking of many of the what ifs. We have had a great teacher, who has spent two winters here and who will continue to provide advice and support from afar. We have internet! And satellite communication.
Right now, the place is buzzing with activity as they close this vast fishing and hunting lodge in the wilderness. On Tuesday, that will change when they all fly off.
This is not our cabin. It’s an old trappers’ cabin near the lake, where two trappers once weathered -60 degrees and lived to tell about it.
The moon was beautiful last night as it rose to the northeast.
And a stunning sunrise greeted us this morning. We have hiked the esker that is behind the lodge and look forward to skiing and snowshoeing it. We’ll use a snowmobile and gas powered auger to get our water once the lake freezes.
While the rest of the country and world broil, we have had a cool, damp summer in the Adirondacks. I read that based on historic trends, forests in temperate climates including those in New York may experience less stress and more vigor due to the warmer and wetter weather that climate change is bringing. It is certainly true here.
Look at this heat map from one day this summer. The brown area had heat warnings.
Compare it to a map of the Adirondack Park from the Adirondack Almanack.
All those trees are keeping us cool – and wet.
How wet? As of today, we have already had a total of 23 inches of rain. The annual average is about 38” over the past twenty years.
So wet, the frogs want in.
This very little frog hung out on our window all day. How little?
So little! That’s him compared to a pen.
How cool? So cool the last time I swam in my favorite pond, I had to cut it short due to an ice cream headache and concern for hypothermia. I thought I was done with pools for the summer. But then we headed south for a family event, to Rockville, MD.
I brought my swim stuff, just in case. And lo and behold, we found this beautiful facility.
8 lanes, 50 meters long! And underused. That’s something we don’t have in the Adirondacks.
Now I’m back home and sleeping under two blankets again.
We packed up Ravioli, our Rav4, named by the grandkids, and headed north to camp along the Gaspé peninsula, which is located south of the St. Lawrence River, east to the Atlantic Ocean.
The Canadian campsites run by SEPAQ were beautiful, private, and pristine. We only car camped one rainy night with a tent gizmo that failed. The air mattress also died but not on that trip.
SEPAQ offers much more comfortable options. We spent three nights on our own little lake, complete with rowboats, deep in a forest preserve in a fishing and hunting cabin. There was even a place to weigh our deer.
The Ranger told us the lake was too warm for fishing and it was too shallow, for my taste, to swim but Tim swam anyway.
We had an adventurous 10 mile detour suggested by Apple maps that put us on a dirt road running under transmission lines, interrupted by a fallen tree and so narrow the brush was scratching Ravioli! We debated Apple vs. Google maps a good part of that day…after we managed to turn around and retrace our miles.
When we arrived in Gaspé, we took a lovely hike up to the tower on top of those cliffs. The views, when the fog lifted, were stupendous.
SEPAQ offers several ready -to-camp options, which may include cots or beds. Tim opted for the teardrop shaped Oasis, set just off the Atlantic ocean beach, in Gaspé proper.
How cute is that? Oasis, not me. The first floor had a table that converted to a double bed and above there was a trampoline that could support 165 pounds. We each had a floor to ourselves. Guess who got the upstairs?
I finished the trip by booking us in a plush resort on the way home. We had a delicious dinner, slept in a real bed, and headed home recharged and ready for anything.
After a year of being on the hard, Sparky, our 15’, 1972 Starcraft Sprint, with its original Mercury motor is back! We spent last summer at Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse, and even coastal Maine was too much for our little lake boat.
I finally had the windshield replaced and a professional motor servicing because I was too chicken to remove the lower unit myself. I knew I could remove it, but putting it back correctly is another matter.
Our maiden voyage took us to two lakes. Someone up here who loves swimming and lists has created the Adirondack 47 Lakers for adventure swimmers (like us?). Tim has a new Adirondack quest and Sparky will play a role. We hope to swim for at least 30 minutes in 47 lakes. Several will be with Sparky’s help. The rest will require a hike.
We spent our first outing in the Pharaoh Lakes wilderness in two beautiful settings: Paradox Lake and Eagle Lake. In both places, I assumed we would be confined to a small portion of the lakes.
Paradox has a narrows, which I thought might be too shallow and weedy to navigate.
My co-captain had other ideas. And it turned out fine. The beaver dam, the park host warned us about, was not a problem and we saw pontoon boats navigating the channel. The swim was glorious.
I need to remember Sparky is a tiny vessel but a champ.
Then we hauled Sparky and relaunched in Eagle Lake, where a very low bridge under the road separates the boat launch from the main lake.
I, once again, expressed concern and was overruled. I had visions of losing our new, crystal clear windshield on its first outing.
There’s the little bridge on our return trip. I was too nervous during the first pass to take pictures.
No problem, we had 4 inches to spare and made it back to the other side. I took my hat off though.
Both 1/2 mile swims were delightful and I look forward to many more. We capped this off with sandwiches and a beer at Paradox brewery. A good time was had by all.
This post has been updated to include new finds and put them all in one place.
These appeared subtly. First we casually saw a few, then we looked harder and finally it was like a scavenger hunt. Tim found six more one day when he walked on his own through the village, with an old camera that lacked connectivity. Here’s our complete set.
First, we noticed a blue beetle on the wall.
Then a ghost on the wall of the cemetery.
Next a frog and submarine by the aquaducts.
A flying pink pig above the charcuterie.
A fly on the wall of Rue Font Picotiere, with a panda for good measure.
A glass of wine with grapes across from the Caviste.
A slice of cake at the boulangerie
And 2 little hedgehogs possibly near the day care
All adorable and subtle. Perhaps more will appear during our stay in Aniane. They give a modern, whimsical nature to this village, which grew around its ancient abbey built in 782.
It starts with an idea and then a lightbulb goes on.
Here’s me on the old road. I spent a lot of time knitting a Shetland baby blanket during our travels. That’s what I was doing when he found this image.
There wasn’t a hospital in the village so babies arrive by stork. True fact.
Be prepared.
Over one of the village watering troughs.
This next one isn’t part of the series but it’s still a mosaic in town.
We couldn’t find anyone who fessed up to being involved in this project but it made us smile.
We had quite the outing planned today. We boarded an early bus to St. Guilhem le Desert to hike. I saw this snail at the bus stop and took it as a sign to go slow and steady.
St. Guilhem may be one of the prettiest cities in France. It has an Abbey from the 7th century with, reportedly, a relic from Christ’s cross.
The Abbey is surrounded by stunning cliffs. On the way to our walk I heard a swarm of bees in a tree. They were gone by the time we finished.
The path joined one of the pilgrim paths to Compostello. We even saw a couple of pilgrims busking in the square with a donkey! We walked up the river valley and around the back of a gigantic rock formation.
I recalled from our last trip a bridge, which I thought harked back centuries. Tim poo pooed me until we came upon the bridge.
The path was well maintained and made it easy to rise above the valley.
We were surprised to come upon burnt forest and learned there was a fire in April.
My phone kept track of our progress. Slow and steady. We missed our bus home so we finished the hike with lunch in the swuare by the Abbey under the 150 year old Plane tree.
Then we hitchhiked home and were picked up by a lovely couple who only spoke french and I was delighted I was able to make small talk, even if I had to repeat myself a couple of times.
Island and North Country Life 